May 13, 2008

Using wood around the pond

Wood is a widely available and versatile material that can be used in many ways in the garden. Along with its natural color and texture, wood is also relatively to work with. Unfortunately, woods major disadvantage of course is rot. Fortunately, wood rot can be overcome and controlled.
 

Although the natural look of wood generally looks best, applying a finish can keep wood looking good for longer. Take precautions when choosing a finish so as to protect your fish. Microporous paints and stains all the wood to breathe. Applying sealant evenly is important because uneven seal jobs are at greater risk of cracking in time. Preservative free stains are available but keep in mind they are harder to find.
 

Don’t use preservatives on wood that comes in contact with your pond water. Be sure to treat the wood far away from the pond so as to avoid any possible chance of the preservatives getting into the water by accident. Always use low-toxic preservatives. Wood preservatives are often in a toxic-solvent base, generally including various pesticides and fungicides that can be lethal to fish and other pond life. Avoid solvent-based treatments when re-treating wood. Fumes from the solvent can even be lethal to fish. Timber is often pre-treated with preservatives so be sure to check before buying.
 

Promote rain water run-off by positioning wooden structures and edging in a way that won’t build up pools of water but will naturally run off. Although hardwoods are more expensive than softwoods, they are more resistant to rot than softwoods. Hardwoods are also harder to cut but are ideal for structures that will be supporting something, such as bridges that people will be walking across.
 

Softwoods can be sealed with clear polyurethane paints, or can be painted with low-toxicity bitumenastic paints. Larch is one of the most rot-resistant softwoods available. Imitation logs available from Japan are molded from concrete and placed around pond edges. After moss grows on them, they look rather natural.
 

It is very important to make sure that wooden slats in bridges and decking are secured safely before they are open to public use. Use rustproof screws when constructing because nails can come loose over time. Drill pilot holes first so as to minimize the risk of splitting. Load-bearing beams need to be bolted into position.

 

May 12, 2008

Keeping your Cool

Longer days and relaxing summer nights equals more time to enjoy your koi pond and water garden. However, along with the temperature change means new challenges that you need to keep in mind this summer.

 Avoid poor water quality

Pay attention to your fish and their eating habits. During the summer, koi and other pond fish will be more active than during the cooler months. This means they will want to eat more and will in turn produce more waste. Stick to your normal feeding habits to avoid poor water quality due to overfeeding. Consider an automatic feeder to take all the thinking out of it. Don’t feel as though you can’t treat your fish every now and then. You can get specific koi treats at any pet store or fresh fruits and vegetables are also great treats. Stick around for a few minutes after feeding so you can scoop out any left over floating food to keep waste to a minimum.

 Bio-Filtration

Boost your current biological filter with supplementary filter media or bacteria. Bacterial additives break down toxic waste better when water temperatures are higher. Keep in mind that supplementing biological filtration during the summer months should only be done in conjunction with increased oxygen levels.

 Add more oxygen

Installing an aeration pump will prevent havoc on your pond due to lack of oxygen. As water temperatures rise, your pond will lose more and more oxygen. The supply of natural oxygen will decrease during the summer while the biological demand increases. Aeration will allow efficient gas exchange to reduce buildup of harmful gasses while increasing oxygen levels at the same time. Healthy levels of oxygen in your pond will keep your fish healthy and happy.

 

May 09, 2008

Practical Koi Fish

Koi fish in the water garden are a beautiful site, the colors of the fish, the various sizes are great to look at and these fish are very functional as well as easy to care for. If you are going to collect Koi in your water garden, you will need to keep in mind how much room these fish need to grow and how the Koi fish likes to live. The early Koi, about twenty five hundred years ago, come from lines of fish, which are called Nishikigoi, and the Magoi. The Magoi is a black fish but color mutations over the year give you the modern day Koi which is also known as the carp.

The Koi raising and Koi gardening hobby is one that is not clearly seen through the world until the early 1900’s. As the railroads began connecting different parts of the countries together, the spread of Koi began advancing as well. The fish known as the Nishikigoi which is a more fancy type of Koi fish is seen in Japan with some collections seen spread out around the world.

The Koi fish is a very sleek looking fish, with an outer layer that seems to envelope the body leaving nothing uncovered. The short fins an the sides of the body, along with the thin sleek tail that helps the Koi moves gives the Koi a complete look that is not interrupted. The front end of the Koi is broader than the end potions of the fish, also called the dorsal portion of the fish. Imagine the comparison of that of a broad chested man and a thin waist. With such a streamlined body the Koi can move through the water without creating much disturbance in the water at all.

The scales on the Koi are similar to an armor that will protect the fish, even though they are a very lightweight protection, the scales cover the entire fish. You will find that there are two types of scales that are seen covering the Koi fish, one type of where the Koi is covered all over with the scales, and the other is where the scales are bigger more prominent. The scales on the first type of Koi are smaller and sometime can break off or peel off, but the scales on the second type of Koi are actually a part of the skin and will not break off or fall off.

May 08, 2008

Transporting Fish Safely

Transporting fish from one place to another is not an adventure to be taken lightly. Much goes into a smooth introduction of fish into a new pond as well as the process of getting them there.

 

If you are purchasing fish from a local pet store, the fish should be put in a plastic bag filled with pure oxygen. Ask if the provider has a stress-treatment that can be squirted in the bag. If the transportation will be a lengthy endeavor, consider putting the fish in a bucket with an air-pump or be prepared to splash the water every so often to allow the water to stay aerated.

 

Keeping the fish in a cool and dark place while transporting is important as this will lower stress for the fish. Keeping an ice-pack under the bag will slow the metabolism and awareness of the fish while slowing their need for oxygen.

 

Once you’ve made it to your destination, you’re only half way there. Letting the fish into their new habitat immediately will cause immense stress and can possibly be fatal. Start by placing the plastic bag in the pond to be floated for 10-15 minutes. If it’s a sunny day, place a towel over the bag to protect the fish from direct sunlight. Adding a teaspoon of dissolved salt will also help to alleviate stress. After the first 10-15 minutes (longer if the fish were transported with ice) add a little bit of the pond water into the bag and continue to float the bag for another 10-15 minutes. A lengthy transition yes, but it will make all the difference in assuring the health and happiness of your fish.

 

At this time you are ready to introduce your fish into the pond. Gently untie the bag and allow the fish to swim out. If you went the route of introducing the pond water into a bucket instead of floating it, be sure to wet your hands before picking up the fish and placing them in the water. For bigger fish, it’s a good idea to use gloves or a net to avoid injury to yourself or the fish.

 

It is a good idea to keep an eye on the new fish after their transition because fish, especially Koi, are known for jumping up and sometimes out of the pond. If you have a pond cover, place it over the pond for a couple of hours or a day to keep the fish from jumping. New fish will usually stay at the bottom of the pond while they recover and gets accustomed to their new surroundings.

 

Lastly, feed fish sparingly for the next few days to allow time to recover and also because you will find they are not particularly hungry at first.

May 06, 2008

Other Roles of Plants

Besides the obvious importance of pond plants including oxygenating by photosynthesis and being aesthetically pleasing to the eye, plants have many other important roles.

 

All pond plants have roots in which they absorb a wide array of things from the water. Nitrates, the end products of the natural detoxification of waste from the pond, can rise to a dangerous level if left unchecked. At an excessively high level, this can negatively affect the health of fragile fish but will also help fertilize the annoying algae variety known as blanket weed, neither a good thing. Plants come into the picture because they can take up excess nitrates through their roots as fertilizer, which will in turn take away important nutrients from algae and help keep your pond algae-free naturally. On top of that, plants can create a cushion against any drastic fluctuations in water quality just by absorbing components in the water.

 

Surface and floating plants will also create shade and shelter for fish from too much sunlight and possible predators. Up to sixty percent coverage for a pond is ideal to keep your pond running smoothly. Plant pond coverage can also help prevent water evaporation from the pond, keep the water cool and provide some food for the fish or other small organisms. Come spawning season, plants provide many sites for fish to lay and fertilize eggs as well as provide safety for the fry and other pond life to develop safely. Submerged plants are also ideal in providing oxygen, food and safety for your pond’s inhabitants. 

May 04, 2008

Planning ahead for water features

Like plants, planning for waterfalls and fountains should include a huge consideration in space, because you’ll need it. There needs to be enough room for the fountain’s sprays to land in the surrounding water and enough volume so you can avoid constantly topping off the water. The style and variety of fountain you choose is up to you but it’s important to decide the size of the fountain you want before you finalize the size and shape of the pond. Don’t forget about leaving space for the pumps and plumbing for both waterfalls and fountains. Submersible pumps are a popular choice for pumps but be sure to keep them accessible for occasional maintenance. Fish greatly benefit from the extra oxygen that moving water creates but some plants suffer from too much movement so plan a still water region for these plants.

 

Of course waterfalls, fountains and pumps require electricity as well as any lighting or heating components you might need for your pond. If more lighting or pumps are in your future, be sure to use big enough supply cables and remember to dig big enough ducts under pond edges so cables can be threaded through easily. There are many varieties of electrical fittings that make it easy to do-it-yourself in your wiring endeavors. If you’re unsure about how to the electrical wiring for your project, consider hiring a professional electrician to be safe. There may also be regulations to follow when it comes to electricity in your water garden.

 

After setting up your electrical wires, the next step is supplying water adequately and carefully. Tap water is usually the best and easiest source for filling up water features as well as topping them off. Avoid using tap water for filling up the pond with large amount of water if you have fish because the chlorine can be dangerous. Water features that need constant topping off can be plumbed right into the water supply through a link that is permanent.

April 30, 2008

Insects and Pests in your water container

Besides the obvious charm and enjoyment water containers provide, there is still some maintenance involved in keeping them attractive and running properly. Along with general cleaning duties, protecting your water container fish and plants from insects and pests can seem like a full time job. To name a few: aphids, mosquitoes, spider mites, midges and moths are some pests that can affect the well-being of your water garden. Luckily, just having fish in your containers can help keep the problem under control. Simply hose the insects into the container and viola, fish food.

 

If you’re trying to avoid using chemicals to aid your efforts, there are some organic methods of fighting off insects and pests. A salt-like white substance called Diacetemous earth (found at swimming pool suppliers) can be placed in a salt shaker and then sprinkled over the affected area, where its tiny points puncture invaders and eventually kill them. Bacillus Thuringiensis (“Bt”), found at garden supply stores, is a bacterium that, when in direct contact with insects, will parasitize its digestive tract and kill it. Because this bacterium comes in a powder form, it can get messy so try mixing it with water and spraying it directly onto the affected areas.

 

For the control of aphids, try mixing a small amount of dishwashing detergent along with vegetable oil and water in a spray bottle. The detergent will help the vegetable oil mix with the water while the oil suffocates the aphids. Once the aphids are dead, remove the oil simply by flooding the container so as to prevent oxygen deprivation for the fish.

 

Although Spider mites are not common in larger water containers, they can be found as some sites. A simple hosing on a daily basis with a strong water jet will usually keep them at bay. For especially bad infestations, remove all plants and hose them off so as to remove any eggs and nymphs from underneath the leaves. Insecticidal soap can also be used every three days underneath the leaves to control the problem.

 

Mosquitoes are known to breed in the smallest puddle of standing water so it shouldn’t be a surprise to find them living in your water container. However, that fact doesn’t make them any less annoying. Again, in this case you may luck out if you are keeping fish in your container because mosquito larvae are a tasty snack for fish. If your container is sans fish, try floating donut-shaped Mosquito Dunks in your container for mosquito control. For smaller containers, try breaking off a small piece from the donut to float in your container. Mosquito Dunks contain Bacillus Thuringiensis (a bacterium mentioned earlier that parasitizes the digestive tracts of insects, killing them) and are completely natural and will not harm your fish, pets or people.

April 28, 2008

Pond Goldfish

There are numerous types of goldfish; some of these varieties can be raised in the water garden while others must be kept in an aquarium or a more stable controlled environment. Goldfish that cannot be kept in the water garden are most often the tropical an subtropical types of goldfish. One thing to be aware of when you are going to keep goldfish in your water garden is the other fish that are kept in the water garden as well. Some fish will eat the goldfish such as the terrapins, just as some birds will eat the small goldfish as well. The birds that often prey on the goldfish are the heron and kingfishers.

What is often found, in the varieties that are in the water garden, is that attacks by birds or other fish can cause harm to the fish that are more delicate. The delicate fish who have the fluid filled sacs below their eyes are most at danger. If you only have goldfish in your water garden, you have already eliminated the problem of other fish attacks. Rocks on the sides of the water garden, cement in the bottom of the water garden, and even statues or plants in the middle of the water garden can sometimes cause damage to the delicate fish, but you can help control this problem with salves and medications for treatment.

April 25, 2008

Koi Fish, History Bits

Koi fish are an every changing fish, from breed to breed and with the ever changing generations, the Koi fish varies. If you are looking for the highest quality and the purest breeds of Koi, you will be happy to know that they do still exist but these pure breeds are more expensive. Most of the purest Koi fish are still found in Japan where the Koi originally was ‘found’, but in some fish breeding stations around the world, they still try very hard to keep their Koi blood lines in tact but it is difficult. Most Koi are cross bred and interbred so that the colors of the Koi and the hardiness of certain fish are ‘brought’ out for the amazing displays that are seen in the water gardens around the world.

Most all modern Koi fish keepers are happy with the lesser pure breeds of Koi because these fish keepers are looking for the colors, the habits and the hardiness of certain fish. Pedigree Koi are more difficult to raise in some areas of the world which is the main reason behind the interbreeding to begin with. While the quality of the ‘pure’ bred Koi is reduced, the quality of the overall fish that are still named Koi fish are better for fish keepers everywhere, but be sure you know what you are looking for so you don’t pay for expensive pure bred fish when you don’t live in an area that can support this need.

complete koi fish history article here

April 21, 2008

Buying Koi

You have decided that you want to stock your pond with koi. Knowing what to look for when koi shopping is the next step. Consider fish shopping in the same way you would when car shopping. You need to observe the fish, watch it’s movements, notice it’s color and size and most of all, make sure it’s what you’re looking for.

 

First of all, watch the way the fish moves. Its movements should be smooth and fluid, not jerky. Consider how it interacts with its surroundings and other fish if applicable. Check to make sure that its gill movements are slow and steady, using both gills. The gill plates of a healthy fish are close to the body. Fish with gills that are protruding and show irregular movement should be avoided.

 

Keep a mental checklist of deformities to be aware of such as white blooms (Ichthyobodo-parasites), raised scales, holes, cloudy eyes, fin rot, bumps on the gills or the head, to name a few. These illnesses can be treated but can get costly and lengthy in treatment time. Find a dealer that will allow you to “bowl” the fish you want to consider buying so you can examine it closer and away from other fish.

 

Once in a smaller container, check for redness on the body or around the fins. If it shows signs of redness that could mean it has just been imported and is stressed but could also be the starting symptoms of internal problems. Check closely for parasites at this time. Fish lice (Argulus) and anchor worms (Lernaea) show around the dorsal fin and tail area. Again, this can be treated but knowing about it before you buy is advised either way.

 

Once you have found the fish you wish to purchase, be sure to ask the dealer what variety you have chosen so you can have a better understanding of what to look for in the future. Dealers can indeed be very helpful but just as you wouldn’t buy a car just because the dealer wants you to, be sure to keep your personal preference a priority when shopping for your new pet koi.